What is Batik?
The
word "batik" is Indonesian in origin, even if the concept was known by
Egyptians and Indians. It is known to be more than a millenium old, and
there are evidences that cloth decorated through some form of resist
technique was in use in the early centuries AD in several West African,
Middle-Eastern and Asian communities.
The
word Batik is originally an Idonesian-Malay word and means to dot .This
art of textile is spread in the hindu and malay world, but Indonesia is
certainly the heart of the Batik.This way of painting and coloring
textile has reached its higher degree of excellence in the Island of
Java , in cities like Solo, Yogyakarta, Pekalongan or Cirebon. From Java
this 'batik' cloth was exported to other islands of the archipelago and
to the Malay peninsula.
On
the 17th century, the Javanese sultanate of Mataram accorded important
ceremonial functions to the Batik clothes. Sultan Agung of Mataram is
known to have dressed in white cotton decorated with Indigo blue, and
his court dancers wore kain kembangan colored with a red organic dye.
Traditional
batik in Java was made with a copper stamp or drawn on cloth by hand
using a tool called a chanting. A chanting is a little copper bowl with a
spout attached to a wood or bamboo handle. The chanting is dipped into
hot wax. The artist draws with the chanting by using the law of gravity.
The wax to pours out of the spout and penetrates the fabric.
The Process of Batik Making
Traditional
batik, either tulis (hand drawn) or stamped, requires many application
of wax and dye, but in modern times the process has been simplified.
Joanie and Barbara do some work which they call double process; the
fabric is pre colored. But mostly they work directly on white rayon.
When the wax is removed, the lines are white. The art lies in the
skillful drawing and the unique painting technique, which is best
considered as watercolor on fabric.
Draw with washable markers so the original lines will disappear once the piece is waxed.
After wax has been applied to our line drawings, the
fabric is stretched flat on a frame. The dyes we use to paint spread easily, too easily. The art is in controlling
where they go, and how each color interacts with others, when to use a lot of water and when to use none at all.
The final product is a beautiful, durable and washable painting of fabric. These batiks will not fade, shrink or bleed.
Works of a famous Batik artist
This is John Tinger. A famous Batik Artist. And these are some of his batik works.
One Famous Batik Artist
One of a Famous Batik Artist we have research on is David Kibuuka.David
Kibuuka started painting at an early age in Uganda. His talent became
quickly apparent at the age of 11 as he was able to sell his paintings
in art galleries, such as Nomo Gallery in Kampala. At that time, David’s
strength was pencil drawing and water color.
Weh Island in Sabang. (JP/ Sita W. Dewi)Here is where Indonesia officially starts. This small island is the northernmost point of the country and offers everything you need for adventure.
One cannot ignore the tsunami when talking about Aceh province. The province was devastated by a magnitude-8.9 quake and tsunami in December 2004. Hundreds of thousands were killed in one of the worst disasters in history. Most coastal parts of the province were destroyed.
When I visited Banda Aceh for the first time in August, I was stunned by how the city had been rebuilt over the past few years. I still got a sense of misery from the loss of family, friends and homes, and of the struggle to put the ruins behind and rebuild everything that was destroyed.
On my second visit to the province in December, I went straight to Weh Island in Sabang.
Sabang, a city of islands including Weh Island — the largest island — and other islets, including Rubiah, Seulako, Klah and Rondo, was much less affected by the tsunami than other parts of the province, such as Meulaboh and Banda Aceh.
Kilometer 0 Monument, Weh island. (JP/ Sita W.
A fisherman unloads his catch, netted in Sabang waters off Aceh, early morning. (JP/Hotli Simanjuntak)Dewi)Visitors
can still spot many colonial buildings and huge trees brought from
Suriname by the Dutch, as well as enjoying Weh’s pristine beaches, which
were barely developed as tourist areas before the tsunami.Sabang has several beaches popular for diving and snorkeling that offer emerald-green waters and breathtaking underwater landscapes, including Gapang, Iboih and Sumur Tiga. Rubiah Islet is also among the best-known world-class diving spots in the country.
Sumur Tiga Beach, which has white sands stretching along 3 kilometers — is relatively close to the Balohan ferry terminal. It takes only about 15 minutes by car to reach the beach from the terminal, while it needs about an hour to reach Iboih and Gapang by car. At Sumur Tiga Beach you can find accommodations that provide beach-view bungalows.
Iboih and Gapang Beaches, where there are a lot of fine lodging options, are closer to the statue that was built to mark the country’s kilometer zero point, called the Kilometer Nol (KM 0) monument. The monument was inaugurated in 1997 by then research and technology minister, and later president, B.J. Habibie.
Setting foot on kilometer zero is one experience you should have when visiting Weh Island. It was built right at the point where the country starts, geographically speaking.
Besides taking pictures, you might ask for a certificate as a memento. The certificate, signed by the Sabang mayor on behalf of the Republic of Indonesia, recognizes your visit to the northernmost point of the country. I was listed as the 60,372nd visitor.
Sumur Tiga Beach, Weh island. (JP/ Sita W. Dewi)The journey to the monument is another story. While meandering, you better watch your surroundings. Mesmerizing sea views from the cliffs, caves from the colonial era, a lake, islets, and beautiful beaches are among the objects you will find along the way.
Approaching the monument you will pass through a protected forest, north of Iboih. Colorful butterflies, birds and wild monkeys will welcome you as you get nearer to KM 0. You may even run into a wild boar inside the monument compound, but don’t worry, it should be harmless. Sunset is said to be the best time to visit KM 0.
On the way back (or probably on the way, if you choose to enjoy sunset at the KM 0), take your time and visit the beaches nearby. Hang out in a local coffee shop and take a sip of Aceh’s famous coffee, popularly known as kopi gayo. Snacks and cakes will be served as complementary.
If you are lucky, you will probably run into the legendary Mama Donut in Gapang beach.
Mama Donut is a brand established by Nilawati, a lady in her 60s, who sells donuts and fried snacks favored by divers and beachgoers. If you have a chance to meet her, don’t think twice before buying. Those small boxes of donuts sell out fast.
Tourists return with speed boats to Ulee Lheue Port, Banda Aceh, from Sabang. (Antara)How to get there
Take a night bus from Medan, North Sumatra, or a flight from Jakarta, Medan, Penang or Kuala Lumpur to Banda Aceh. From Banda Aceh you can take a fast or a slow ferry from Ulee Lheu port to Balohan ferry terminal in Sabang. The trip with slow ferry will take up to three hours while the fast ferry only needs 45 minutes.
Ferry schedule
Banda Aceh – Sabang
Monday, Tuesday and Thursday at 1 p.m.
Friday at 4 p.m.
Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Sabang – Banda Aceh
Monday, Tuesday Thursday and Friday at 8 a.m.
Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 8 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Express ferries (Express Bahari and Rondo)
Banda Aceh – Sabang at 10:30 a.m. and 4 p.m., except Friday at 4:30 p.m.
Sabang – Banda Aceh at 8 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Notes:
Aceh is a province with special autonomy that upholds sharia laws. Local residents will tolerate the behavior of tourists, but it is always better to respect their way of life, by, for instance, wearing appropriate outfit while getting around the city and talking with local residents. There are, however, tourist areas where you can freely put on your swimsuits and sunbathe. While rarely available in Sabang, alcoholic beverages can be found in western restaurants and resorts.
Raja Ampat is in Papua in Indonesia.
The name given to these islands comes from a local myth. The four
major islands found here are Waigeo, Misool (which is home to ancient
rock paintings), Salawati, and Batanta.
From Sorong, there are two type of boats available; Speed Boat (40 minutes - 1 hour boat trip, carries 15 passengers and costs Rp2 million/US$208.55); Long Boat (2-3 hour boat trip and could carry 10 passengers for the cost of Rp1,2 million/ US$126). Please note that all rates are subject to change without notice
However with Raja Ampat’s natural conditions, high endemic level of land, sea biodiversity, coastal ecology, and local culture & tradition the islands offer more than just amazing landscapes to photograph.
So you may also consider:
In East Waigeo, particularly in front of Urbinasopen and Yesner villages, there is a very interesting and unique natural phenomenon, which can only be seen every year-end. A light comes out from the ocean and wanders around on its surface for about 10 – 18 minutes. After that, it disappears and can only be seen again at the following years-end. Local inhabitants in both villages call this phenomenon the “Sea Ghost”. This is more than just a sunset view, overlooking from your liveaboard.
In Tomolol, you'll be amazed by the caves in the area, where you can see paintings of huge human palms and animals which were painted by ancient cave dwellers. While on North Waigeo, you can also take in some history with a visit to the World War II caves where the Dutch and the Japanese army built bunkers. The locals will sometimes perform a war dance. There is also the ever-flowing waterfall of Salawati, which is a sight you should not miss.
You may rent a small boat if you wish to stop and make personal discoveries along the line of the beaches. As the Raja Ampat Islands have four mountainous main islands and hundreds of small islands in their vicinity, you may want to take this opportunity to explore. In addition, the Karst area is a beautiful and original natural phenomenon, as it has various unique flora and fauna as its attractions e.g., Bird of Paradise (Cenderawasih) Botak, Red Cenderawasih, Maleo Waigeo, Kus-kus, orchids, palm etc. You can also trek around the islands to find hidden beauties, like waterfalls and ancient caves.
In addition, there are also exotic locations such as the Ayau islands consisting of small islands on a very large atoll. Many islands in this archipelago have white sands with a large seabed connecting one island to another. But there are also islands with unique sands that the local community calls “zandplaat”, which are a unique habitat for local vegetation. On these islands, mothers and children of local tribes collectively catch sea-worms (insonem).
For diving enthusiasts the favorite destination is usually South Waigeo. But while you are here, why not take the chance to visit Kabui Bay with many karst islands, goa tengkorak (cave of skulls), and the historical sites of Raja Ampat in Kali Raja. You can see a variety of birds in Yenwaupnor and Sawinggrai village, the Salay dance in Saonek, and plaited handicrafts in Arborek. In Arborek, visitors can dive and watch groups of stingrays. In Sawandarek, there's a white sand beach with sea ducks and beautiful corals. In addition, there is a traditional village where you can walk around in and enjoy the unique slow paced atmosphere.
You can also dive in West Waigeo, Batanta, and Kofiau. These potential destinations are great places to visit by houseboats. The Karst islands in Wayag, especially, have very interesting natural attractions to enjoy.
Picture
Get around
Commonly, divers will join a tour and live in a diving resort during their stay in the Raja Ampat Islands. To access diving spots, please contact and use the professional diving organizers, who can be conveniently found in Sorong. Several tour operators also offer the option of liveboard tours:- Raja Ampat Liveaboard
- Dive Raja Ampat
- Raja Ampat
From Sorong, there are two type of boats available; Speed Boat (40 minutes - 1 hour boat trip, carries 15 passengers and costs Rp2 million/US$208.55); Long Boat (2-3 hour boat trip and could carry 10 passengers for the cost of Rp1,2 million/ US$126). Please note that all rates are subject to change without notice
See
In Raja Ampat, you can see different types of fish and corals. Raja Ampat is the place where coral species reach 75% of all known species and fish nearly 1,300 species.Do
The Raja Ampat islands are a truly natural phenomenon with enormous biological diversity. The amazing marine landscape means that underwater photography should be on the top your list during your stay.However with Raja Ampat’s natural conditions, high endemic level of land, sea biodiversity, coastal ecology, and local culture & tradition the islands offer more than just amazing landscapes to photograph.
So you may also consider:
- Wreck diving
- Sailing
- Kayaking
- Exploring the islands by boat
- Visiting the Red Bird of Paradise
- Enjoying the Karst islands around Wayag Island
- Exploring the bat caves (literally, not the Dark Knight variety)
- Make your own wood sculpture guided by an Asmat artisan
- Fishing using traditional Papuan techniques
- Trekking to discover waterfalls
- Feeding couscous
- Snorkeling
- Watching The Sea Ghost
In East Waigeo, particularly in front of Urbinasopen and Yesner villages, there is a very interesting and unique natural phenomenon, which can only be seen every year-end. A light comes out from the ocean and wanders around on its surface for about 10 – 18 minutes. After that, it disappears and can only be seen again at the following years-end. Local inhabitants in both villages call this phenomenon the “Sea Ghost”. This is more than just a sunset view, overlooking from your liveaboard.
In Tomolol, you'll be amazed by the caves in the area, where you can see paintings of huge human palms and animals which were painted by ancient cave dwellers. While on North Waigeo, you can also take in some history with a visit to the World War II caves where the Dutch and the Japanese army built bunkers. The locals will sometimes perform a war dance. There is also the ever-flowing waterfall of Salawati, which is a sight you should not miss.
You may rent a small boat if you wish to stop and make personal discoveries along the line of the beaches. As the Raja Ampat Islands have four mountainous main islands and hundreds of small islands in their vicinity, you may want to take this opportunity to explore. In addition, the Karst area is a beautiful and original natural phenomenon, as it has various unique flora and fauna as its attractions e.g., Bird of Paradise (Cenderawasih) Botak, Red Cenderawasih, Maleo Waigeo, Kus-kus, orchids, palm etc. You can also trek around the islands to find hidden beauties, like waterfalls and ancient caves.
In addition, there are also exotic locations such as the Ayau islands consisting of small islands on a very large atoll. Many islands in this archipelago have white sands with a large seabed connecting one island to another. But there are also islands with unique sands that the local community calls “zandplaat”, which are a unique habitat for local vegetation. On these islands, mothers and children of local tribes collectively catch sea-worms (insonem).
For diving enthusiasts the favorite destination is usually South Waigeo. But while you are here, why not take the chance to visit Kabui Bay with many karst islands, goa tengkorak (cave of skulls), and the historical sites of Raja Ampat in Kali Raja. You can see a variety of birds in Yenwaupnor and Sawinggrai village, the Salay dance in Saonek, and plaited handicrafts in Arborek. In Arborek, visitors can dive and watch groups of stingrays. In Sawandarek, there's a white sand beach with sea ducks and beautiful corals. In addition, there is a traditional village where you can walk around in and enjoy the unique slow paced atmosphere.
You can also dive in West Waigeo, Batanta, and Kofiau. These potential destinations are great places to visit by houseboats. The Karst islands in Wayag, especially, have very interesting natural attractions to enjoy.
Eat
Dining services are provided by the diving organizer, and range from an international menu to fresh traditional food made by the local people. Naturally, there will be a variety of seafood dishes. Do try the fish soup. There's a local specialty called Sup Ikan Kuning (Yellow Fish Soup), served with local spices.Sleep
Presently on Saonek Monde, a Tourist Center and harbor are being constructed. In the near future there are plans for three resorts to be built on Nyandebabo, and Batbitiem, Waiwo, and Waigeo Selatan Islands. But in the meantime, you can choose from the alternatives below:- Sorido Bay Resort, which is famous for the house reef
- Kri Eco Resort, a traditional resort built over the water
- Island camp
- Boathouse (most diving agents provide this service)
- Raja4Divers (Dive Resort Raja Ampat), Pulau Pef, (info@raja4divers.com), Raja4Divers dive resort has opened to the public in June 2011 and is located on the remot island Pef. The 7 spacious guest bungalows are built in authentic Papuan style and are situated directly on the west facing beach. There are three dive boats to bring the guest to the several dive spots around the island. The famous dive site 'The Passage' is only 15 minutes from the resort.
- Doberai eco resort, Urai island, ☎ 0811192237
Picture
Lake Toba (Danau Toba) [1], is the largest volcanic lake in the world and is in Sumatra, Indonesia. Samosir island within the lake is the island within the island of Sumatra.
Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs sky rocket.
From Medan Polonia airport you can fly directly to Silangit with Susi Air daily . Flights take approximately 30 minutes and is a much better and safer way than the road trip. 2013 February the flight costs 425,000 IDR $42 USD one way. Transportation options from Silangit airport are limited; it is a good idea to pre-arrange a driver to be waiting; From Silangit Airport to Parapat take 2 hours drive. To Silangit airport from Parapat there are many transport providers available around the ferry terminal area. Costs to / from Silangit and Parapat should cost around 300,000 IDR each way per vehicle.
You can go there by taxi at Medan Airport to tiga raja harbour.There are RAJA TAXI;ARTHA TAXI; and TOBATRANSPORTER, whatsapp,viber, ☎ +6285261492668 (tobatransporter@hotmail.com). for tour packages and trip price you can see in their sites,You can also go from Berastagi to Parapat and from Bukit Lawang to Parapat for leaving service from both way with some places that you can visit on the way go to Lake Toba
Parapat is connected to Tomok and Tuk Tuk on the Samosir Island by boat/ferry that run every 1 hr, the last one at 7PM (Rp 10,000). The place to catch the ferry to Tuk Tuk is called "Tiga Raja" harbour/jetty. ferry man will drop you which place you stay in Tuk Tuk . In my opinion try to observe the ferry with wooden bench inside and light green colored ferry. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 10,000 and the locals take to cross over. Tuk Tuk is the main town to stay on Samosir. Use the boat service not the large ferry, they will drop you directly at your Tuk Tuk resort.
Please note: As of Sep 2012 here is only one cirrus/mastercard ATM on the island (at the white beach entrance), better to get enough cash at Parapat before crossing the lake to the island.
Another great way to get to Lake Toba is by train. Two or three trains leave each day in that direction and you want to get off either at Pematang Siantar or Tebing Tinggi (note: the train stops at one or the other). If you want to get to the train directly from Medan airport, get a taxi or becak, and tell them or write Lapangan Merdeka and Setasiun Kereta Api Medan. From the station there's only 2 train leaves Medan to Permatang Siantar (or Siantar) which is 11AM and 7:25PM. The fare is Rp 12,000 per person and the journey takes approximately 3-4 hr. Train stop at almost each station. Once you reach the Siantar station double check the schedule for the train for going back to Medan. Then take a Becak or walk to the bus/taxi hub to travel to Perapat. The train is a wonderful way to travel if you like to learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle. Once you are in your seat and have a stream of buskers, food vendors and friendly local passing by you will know why this is often the best way to travel overland. From Siantar (1 hour taxi) or Tebing Tinggi (2 hr taxi) you will need to hire a taxi or a bus for road transport to Parapat.
The ferry ride over is fantastic, just truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts, bottled water, mie or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you will get off the ferry and onto the main road. Alternatively use the boat service but watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark — they do not work for the operators, you pay on the boat.
The road signs are pretty much useless, as is asking the locals for directions. Anyway if you are going to tuk tuk keep going, even though it may seem to be taking forever and you have been stuck in the Kijang for 8 hrs= with 10 other people, but you will get there and the hosts will be wonderful.
Do not try to drive out of Samosir Island by going up and over the top to the land bridge. The road is very bad.
It is also possible to go to Parapat from Dumai by mini-van, leaving in the afternoon. The trip takes around 11 hr, and costs Rp 150,000.
Public Boats from Parapat and surrounding areas sail from either Ajibata or Tigaraja to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir Island. The fee is Rp 10,000 per trip.
There is also bigger ship which transports Cars and Busses sailing between Tigaraja and Tomok.
Hire a motorcycle for a day or two and get out and about Rp 85,000 per day including full petrol. You can bargain down to Rp 80,000 per day in low season if you hire for several days. Most of the motorcycles available for rent are the owner's own transportation, so you may need to return it to them before sunset (depends on owner) or you may be charge for an extra fees. Take a map. There are no police checking licenses and there is not much traffic - just watch out for the big trucks, buses and diabolical bridges. Honking around is a norm to indicate that there's incoming car from the opposite or there's a car bypassing you from the back (in driver's point of view). A good journey to take on a motorcycle would be to travel North from Tuk Tuk around to the western shore, stopping at the tourist sites along the way such as the many and varied traditional houses and villages. The roads are very bad in the centre of the island (bumpy and washed out) and it takes half a day to cross this way (verse 1-2 hours by coast road which is more scenic anyway). You can expect to ride at least up to 100 km in the day. If you're going around the island with motorcycle or bicycle, be sure to put on some sunblock as when you venture out in the morning things can be deceiving due to the cooler temperatures in the morning cause of the higher elevation, but the sun will be intense by mid-day.
It may be obvious but just remember there are no taxis around Tuk Tuk. Sure you can walk the small part of the island in an hour or so but if you are heading out for the night plan ahead on how you will get back home. The locals are very friendly people who will go out of their way to help. However, some corners of the island are very quiet at night and you may find yourself on a long long walk.
Most of the cottages and guest houses at Tuk Tuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee, this is a very much preferred way to get around, but be very careful for the cars as nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even when its the left side.
Saturday night is often the highlight on the local calendar. You can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuk Tuk area.
There are numerous hotels and guest houses, mainly in Tuk tuk but
with a few scattered in other small towns around the island. During
Chinese New Year (end of Jan/early Feb), many Indonesians come for
vacation and will pay generously for their rooms (about triple the
rate). To accommodate these guests, some guest house owners may ask
their existing guests to vacate their rooms, but only giving them very
short notice. Therefore, when arriving before Chinese New Year, check
with the guest house owner to ensure your stay will not be interrupted.
A popular way for tourists to get around Samosir Island is to hire a motorcycle Rp 70,000-80.000, a lower rate may be available if rented for a longer period. Care should be taken if choosing this option as the roads around the island are in poor condition and medical services very limited if you have an accident requiring medical treatment.
Get out
You can also go by TobatTransporter, whatsapp,viber, ☎ +6285261492668 (tobatransporter@hotmail.com) who operates a private car with (5 seaters or 7 seaters) from Parapat to Berastagi cost Rp 450.000/car and from Parapat to Bukit Lawang Rp 900.000/car and for leaving service from both way with some places that you can visit on the way go to Berastagi and Bukit Lawang
Understand
Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake covering an area of 1,707 sq km (1,000 sq km bigger than Singapore) with an island in the center. Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggests that there were only a few thousand individuals that survived the catastrophe. The island in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of Batak tribe who are mostly Christians in the modern days.Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs sky rocket.
Talk
Indonesian, known as Bahasa Indonesia. And there are local people who live in Toba region that called BATAK; they speak with the local language BATAK; just say for the whole greetings HORAS means welcome, good morning, farewell and etc.Get in
Most visitors fly to Medan and then travel by land to Parapat, the town by Lake Toba. Parapat is about 4 hours by car from Medan (4-6 hours by public bus). You can get from Medan airport to Lake Toba entirely by public transport if you wish. First, you must go from the airport to Amplas bus terminal. Walk through the car park and go out the main car exit of the airport, cross the road and turn left after the petrol station, and then turn right (about a ten-fifteen min walk altogether). There, you can catch a yellow public bus, number 64, to Amplas Terminal for Rp 3,000. From Amplas terminal, you can get a public bus to Parapat for Rp 22,000. So you can get from Medan airport to Parapat for a total of Rp 25,000 (September 2012), and then get a ferry out to Samosir island for Rp 7,000/person. The boat drops you at your hotel.From Medan Polonia airport you can fly directly to Silangit with Susi Air daily . Flights take approximately 30 minutes and is a much better and safer way than the road trip. 2013 February the flight costs 425,000 IDR $42 USD one way. Transportation options from Silangit airport are limited; it is a good idea to pre-arrange a driver to be waiting; From Silangit Airport to Parapat take 2 hours drive. To Silangit airport from Parapat there are many transport providers available around the ferry terminal area. Costs to / from Silangit and Parapat should cost around 300,000 IDR each way per vehicle.
You can go there by taxi at Medan Airport to tiga raja harbour.There are RAJA TAXI;ARTHA TAXI; and TOBATRANSPORTER, whatsapp,viber, ☎ +6285261492668 (tobatransporter@hotmail.com). for tour packages and trip price you can see in their sites,You can also go from Berastagi to Parapat and from Bukit Lawang to Parapat for leaving service from both way with some places that you can visit on the way go to Lake Toba
Parapat is connected to Tomok and Tuk Tuk on the Samosir Island by boat/ferry that run every 1 hr, the last one at 7PM (Rp 10,000). The place to catch the ferry to Tuk Tuk is called "Tiga Raja" harbour/jetty. ferry man will drop you which place you stay in Tuk Tuk . In my opinion try to observe the ferry with wooden bench inside and light green colored ferry. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 10,000 and the locals take to cross over. Tuk Tuk is the main town to stay on Samosir. Use the boat service not the large ferry, they will drop you directly at your Tuk Tuk resort.
Please note: As of Sep 2012 here is only one cirrus/mastercard ATM on the island (at the white beach entrance), better to get enough cash at Parapat before crossing the lake to the island.
Another great way to get to Lake Toba is by train. Two or three trains leave each day in that direction and you want to get off either at Pematang Siantar or Tebing Tinggi (note: the train stops at one or the other). If you want to get to the train directly from Medan airport, get a taxi or becak, and tell them or write Lapangan Merdeka and Setasiun Kereta Api Medan. From the station there's only 2 train leaves Medan to Permatang Siantar (or Siantar) which is 11AM and 7:25PM. The fare is Rp 12,000 per person and the journey takes approximately 3-4 hr. Train stop at almost each station. Once you reach the Siantar station double check the schedule for the train for going back to Medan. Then take a Becak or walk to the bus/taxi hub to travel to Perapat. The train is a wonderful way to travel if you like to learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle. Once you are in your seat and have a stream of buskers, food vendors and friendly local passing by you will know why this is often the best way to travel overland. From Siantar (1 hour taxi) or Tebing Tinggi (2 hr taxi) you will need to hire a taxi or a bus for road transport to Parapat.
The ferry ride over is fantastic, just truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts, bottled water, mie or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you will get off the ferry and onto the main road. Alternatively use the boat service but watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark — they do not work for the operators, you pay on the boat.
The road signs are pretty much useless, as is asking the locals for directions. Anyway if you are going to tuk tuk keep going, even though it may seem to be taking forever and you have been stuck in the Kijang for 8 hrs= with 10 other people, but you will get there and the hosts will be wonderful.
Do not try to drive out of Samosir Island by going up and over the top to the land bridge. The road is very bad.
It is also possible to go to Parapat from Dumai by mini-van, leaving in the afternoon. The trip takes around 11 hr, and costs Rp 150,000.
Get around
Local transportation around the lake takes the form of boats (cheaper, school boats with limited schedules and more expensive public boats that operate throughout the day).Public Boats from Parapat and surrounding areas sail from either Ajibata or Tigaraja to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir Island. The fee is Rp 10,000 per trip.
There is also bigger ship which transports Cars and Busses sailing between Tigaraja and Tomok.
Hire a motorcycle for a day or two and get out and about Rp 85,000 per day including full petrol. You can bargain down to Rp 80,000 per day in low season if you hire for several days. Most of the motorcycles available for rent are the owner's own transportation, so you may need to return it to them before sunset (depends on owner) or you may be charge for an extra fees. Take a map. There are no police checking licenses and there is not much traffic - just watch out for the big trucks, buses and diabolical bridges. Honking around is a norm to indicate that there's incoming car from the opposite or there's a car bypassing you from the back (in driver's point of view). A good journey to take on a motorcycle would be to travel North from Tuk Tuk around to the western shore, stopping at the tourist sites along the way such as the many and varied traditional houses and villages. The roads are very bad in the centre of the island (bumpy and washed out) and it takes half a day to cross this way (verse 1-2 hours by coast road which is more scenic anyway). You can expect to ride at least up to 100 km in the day. If you're going around the island with motorcycle or bicycle, be sure to put on some sunblock as when you venture out in the morning things can be deceiving due to the cooler temperatures in the morning cause of the higher elevation, but the sun will be intense by mid-day.
It may be obvious but just remember there are no taxis around Tuk Tuk. Sure you can walk the small part of the island in an hour or so but if you are heading out for the night plan ahead on how you will get back home. The locals are very friendly people who will go out of their way to help. However, some corners of the island are very quiet at night and you may find yourself on a long long walk.
Most of the cottages and guest houses at Tuk Tuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee, this is a very much preferred way to get around, but be very careful for the cars as nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even when its the left side.
See
There are hot springs on the western side of the island just across the causeway from Pangururan. The water is hot. Locals usually use their hands to get some water out of the pool, standing in the pool is possible, but you probably won't be able to swim. The fee to enter to the surroundings is Rp 2,000. The pools are free, there's some special foreigner pool for Rp 10,000.Itineraries
- Samosir - Many Big Statues as Cemeteries for Batak people ancestors
- Samosir, Simanindo - Batak Museum with traditional dance performed twice daily
- Samosir, Ambarita - Stone chairs used for judgement and executions
- Samosir, Tomok - Good place for locals and foreigner to shop for souvenirs. vegetable and fruits. There's a tomb for you to visit as well.
- Just on the other side of Samosir, near Pangururan are hot springs
- From Tuk tuk you can see a waterfall up the mountain behind you. It's a great walk with a rewarding fresh swim.
Do
Kick back and relax after the frenetic atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 8:15PM onwards. After the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men.Eat
The main road around Tuktuk is lined with small restaurants of varying quality. Also on offer is magic mushroom and various "happy herb" pizzas if you want that.- Cotney Restaurant, (by the Samosir resort). Rendangs, curries. Internet is available at a reasonable local price.
- Jenny's Restaurant, (There is only one or two roads so simply ask for Jenny's.). Restaurant with view of Lake Toba. Curries, fresh lake-fish, steamed or grilled, western food such as schnitzel (breaded pork or chicken chop pan fried). Desserts include fresh papaya that grows in the back-yard or a golden-brown banana pancake with chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of coconut. Once all the guests in the small place with only about 5 tables are fed and happy, Rinto will take the guitar from the wall and entertain his patrons
- Joe's, (about 2 km from Tuk Tuk towards Ambarita). A family restaurant with a kind, friendly owner. Chicken à la batak Rp 25,000, banana chocolate cake Rp 80,000 (for a whole cake). Also has fresh vanilla for sale (Rp 70,000 for 100 grams) and motorbike rental.
- Marco Polo, Close to the northern tip of Tuk Tuk (Walk north past most restaurants, about 15 min from Carolina). Views and reasonably priced food. Make sure to try the avocado sandwich for Rp 10,000, the avocado tree can be seen from the balcony. The owners are extremely nice and helpful but don't seem to get many customers as they are past the main tourist area.
- Maruba Restaurant, Tuk-tuk (In between Amberoba Hotel and Rodeo Accommodation). Traditional Batak and Indonesian food and a variety of Western meals such as schnitzels, real homemade burgers, pasta and roast chicken with fresh herb stuffing. Brown bread, burger buns and baguettes baked most days. English breakfast with smoked bacon is delicious. You can order a Batak feast one day (or less)in advance. Some choices are boneless fish curry, ikan na neura (very fresh raw fish marinated with candlenuts, spices & lime juice), napi nadir (a Batak style curry made with grilled chicken), saksang (chopped pork cooked with Batak spices and fresh pig's blood (blood is optional). Also available to order..delicious Lake Toba freshwater lobster (crayfish) at a very reasonable price.
- Orari Restaurant, Tuk-Tuk (Next to Anju), ☎ +62 625 451093. Restaurant with traditional Batak, Indonesian and European cuisine. Spaghetti bolognese, nasi goreng 'special', beef rendang, BBQ fish. Restaurant has a view of the lake. Motorbike rentals also available for Rp 85.000 .
- Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451318 (http://tabores@indo.net.id), . Free wifi, western-styled food served, the extensive menu is possibly pricier than other options. They have baked goods and European quality natural yoghurt. Fish is caught directly from the lake. from 215.000.
- Today's cafe, Tuk-tuk (2mins walk from Samosir Villa),. The owner of this small cafe, juliet is the friendliest host in the island! Pay her a visit and you will visit again for sure! Mains from 20000rps-35000rps. Wifi available for 10000rps an hour.
Drink
There is one discotheque on Fri and Sat nights - expect the latest 80s music. Better to drink at your guest house generally.Saturday night is often the highlight on the local calendar. You can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuk Tuk area.
- Samosir Cottages you will provide a wonderful local Batak performance that is a mixture of traditional dances and fantastic drinking songs.
- Reggae Bar is perched high up looking over the lake.
- Hibiscus Bar on main street is hosted by two wonderful local girls and plays cool tunes with a little encouragement. Thats the thing to remember in Tuk Tuk.
- Roy's Pub, Tuk-Tuk (At the northern end of Tuk-Tuk peninsula.). Midday until 1am.. Roy's is the local live music venue. On Tues, Thurs, and Sat Roy's son and his band play the western-orientated classics (think Eagles/GnR etc) beloved by Batak guitarists. It seems to draw pretty much all the post-11pm crowd any day of the week, though Saturday is the main night.
Sleep
- Bagus Bay, Bagus Bay, ☎ +62 625 451287. Next to the lake. A dark wood and bamboo bar/restaurant gives the place a relaxed feel. The rooms are basic. They have a restaurant and internet computers. Free secure WIFI. Rp 30,000-175,000.
- Barbara`s Guesthouse, Ambarita, ☎ +62 625 700 0230 (barbarasguesthouse@laketoba.de). Small quite relaxing place a few km from Tuk Tuk with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several houses. Western and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant or on the terrace. Tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. From Rp 70,000.
- Hotel Carolina, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451210 (carolina@indosat.net.id), 49 rooms set in a beautiful tropical garden. It has a restaurant with a verandah overlooking the lake. Staff are very helpful. Small Batak style cottages up the hill have cold water only. Luxury rooms on the lake shore come with hot water, a bath tub and a fridge. They have a lake area for swimming with a diving board and pontoon to relax. The hotel can organise travel, trips and motorbike rental. Computer room and free wifi in the restaurant area, though the speed can be very slow. Rp 45,000-150,000+10%.
- Ebikel's Homestay, (just next to Hotel Carolina). Homestay with a decent room and affordable price. The owner Ebikel is a helpful and willing guide to Samosir Island.
- Christina Guesthouse, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451027,. A small relaxing place with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several traditional Batak-houses). Internet and skype access are available for reasonable price. Western and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant. General tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. From Rp 50,000.
- Liberta Homestay, Sosor Galung, ☎ +62 625 451035. It has quiet private cabins on the lake. Friendly owner Mr Moon will sing, cook, and go out of his way for you. He also provides a herbal blend against diarrhea. Rp 35,000+.
- Mas Cottages, (about 2 km from Tuk Tuk towards Ambarita). Closer to the ancient ceremonial stone chairs than downtown Tuk-Tuk. Variety of accommodation options all directly on the lake including suites and traditional Batak houses. Prices are a bit higher for this secluded location. Rooms with hot water, but the hot water is unreliable. Good breakfast, excellent swimming (plus a rope swing), and friendly staff. Being slightly out of Tuk-Tuk, the restaurant also tends to generate a very open, communal atmosphere. Rp 60,000-70,000.
- Romlan, ☎ +62 625 451386 (romlantuktuk@yahoo.com). Small guesthouse with 12 rooms including 2 batak cottages in both a single and a 2 storey building. The rooms are clean and comfortable with attached bathroom. All rooms have a direct lake view. Good for swimming and relaxing. Local and indonesian food including some German meals. Free Wifi. Private boat dock. Cottages Rp 40,000, rooms Rp 100,000. edit
- Samosir Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451170 (info@samosircottages.com), . Good for those who arrive late in Parapat, there is usually a representative to take them to the cottages. The waterfront is clean, and the large restaurant food and drinks. Batak music provided every Wed night and Sat night. If you walk outside the hotel you can use a local cafe which may offer some more variety and cheaper prices. They also own Samorsir Villa Resort 5 mins drive away. It and its sister resort has new rooms, free wifi, a pool table, diving boards and a restaurant providing food and drinks. From Rp 70,000.
- Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451 318 (tabores@indo.net.id),. Rooms are clean and quite modern by Sumateran standards. Free wifi. Western-styled food served in the restaurant is good. From Rp 120,000.
- Tony's Guest House, (ask any local). Nice people and nice double room. Vegetable taco for Rp 21,000. From Rp 25,000.
- Aman guesthouse, Tuk tuk (Next to tony's). Traditional Batak houses with hot water shower. Rp 40,000-50,000rps per room.
- Parnas Homestay and Bar, Tuktuk Siadong - Samosir Island, Parapat 22395, Indonesien, ☎ +62 625 451167. A very chilled out place on the left wing of the peninsula Tuktuk. 4 very spacious and beautifully furnished rooms with bathroom, direct access to the lake and stunning views. There's a huge Bar and restaurant with a communal room. Free Pool Billiard, Table Tennis, Darts. Live Musik, Scooter Rental, BBQ, Laundry. Rooms between Rp 60.000 in low Season and Rp 150.000 in high season (note: confirm the agreed room price in writing as it may change when you get the bill)
- Haraira, (Close to Jennys Restaurant). Large very clean rooms with hot water shower (80.000-100.000 rps/night). Well maintained garden in front of the rooms towards the Lake. Really nice view, good swimming.
- Samosir Villas Resort, Tuk Tuk, ☎ +62 625 451399, . New villa resort on Samosir island. Rooms with tv, free wifi, hot bath. Swimming pool, gym, ping pong table etc. Breakfast included. Prices from 350,000 Visa/Mastercard accepted
Stay safe
The local Batak people are very respectful. Some of the local males may try to turn on the charm too much.A popular way for tourists to get around Samosir Island is to hire a motorcycle Rp 70,000-80.000, a lower rate may be available if rented for a longer period. Care should be taken if choosing this option as the roads around the island are in poor condition and medical services very limited if you have an accident requiring medical treatment.
Get out
You can also go by TobatTransporter, whatsapp,viber, ☎ +6285261492668 (tobatransporter@hotmail.com) who operates a private car with (5 seaters or 7 seaters) from Parapat to Berastagi cost Rp 450.000/car and from Parapat to Bukit Lawang Rp 900.000/car and for leaving service from both way with some places that you can visit on the way go to Berastagi and Bukit Lawang
Carstensz Pyramid
Carstensz Pyramid is the highest mountain, not only of the New Guinea Island, but also of Australia and Oceania. It lies in the Snow Mountains of the Indonesian province Papua. The ascent to the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid is possible only using experienced climbing techniques.There are several routes leading to the summit. The simplest one is the “normal” route, which was taken in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, the first conqueror of the Carstensz Pyramid. You can even go skiing and unforgettable.
Wasur National Park
In Papua province of Indonesia. This park is the joint project of the Indonesian Directorate of Forest Protection & Nature Conservation and the indigenous people (mainly the Kanum and Marind) who contribute to, and benefit from, the park and its management. The 4138-sq-km park (Taman Nasional Wasur) backs onto the PNG border, and features termite mounds, wetlands, traditional villages and extensive bird life (74 endemic species). Wildlife includes cuscus and kangaroos (including 27 endemic species), but animals are often very difficult to see. The best time to visit is during the dry season (July to January); access during the wet season (February to June) is often only possible to Yanggandur and Onggaya villages.
The Mentawai Islands
West Sumatra, Mentawai Islands have consistent surf year-round at hundreds of famous and notso-famous breaks. But the best of the good waves can be found roughly between April and October (give or take a month). In the past, charter boats were the primary means of reaching the top surfing spots, but beachside camps (many of which are affiliated with charter companies) have set down roots on the islands. Surf resorts also offer cultural tour treks into the interior of Siberut.
The Kei Islands
The Kei Islands most famous tourist draw is Pasir Panjang, 3km of white sand so powdery it feels like flour. Coconut palms curve across it obligingly for your photographic delectation. Yet despite the brochure-cover beauty, the beach is almost entirely deserted except at weekends. Amid the palms around 400m north of Ngur Bloat (aka Pasir Panjang village) are a handful of Saturday-night karaoke shacks, two offering accommodation.
Taka Bonerate Marine Park
Southeast of Pulau Selayar, and north of Pulau Bone Rate, is the 2220-sq-km Taka Bone Rate, the world’s third-largest coral atoll. The largest, Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands, is just 20% bigger. Some of the islands and extensive reefs in the region are now part of Taka Bonerate Marine National Park (Taman Laut Taka Bone Rate), a marine reserve with a rich variety of marine and bird life. There is no official accommodation on the islands, but if you manage to get here you can stay with villagers if you ask the kepala desa (village head) at Bone Rate on Pulau Bone Rate. Alternatively, take a tent and camp on a beach. Boats leave irregularly from Selayar. Most visitors are divers travelling on liveaboard trips.
Morotai Islands
Off Halmahera’s northern tip, this sparsely populated island became a minor Japanese base during WWII. It leapt to importance when it was captured by the Allies and used to bomb Manila to bits – the sad fulfilment of General MacArthur’s ‘I will return’ pledge to retake the Philippines. Among the Japanese defenders that retreated to Morotai’s crumpled mountain hinterland was the famous Private Nakamura: only in 1973 did he discover that the war was over. Bunkers and rusty bullet-cases are visible at overgrown WWII battle sites near Trans Dua. That’s 35 muddy minutes by ojek from Morotai’s village capital Daruba where a rusting US amphibious lander (amfibi) lies hidden in a coconut plantation. Daruba fishing smacks can take you to Pulau Sum Sum, a beautiful desert island that was MacArthur’s temporary WWII command base. It has delightful spongy, white sand and is littered with giant clam shells and the odd WWII bullet.
Kelimutu
Set in plunging craters at the summit of a volcano, the coloured lakes of Kelimutu are undoubtedly the most spectacular sight in Nusa Tenggara. Astonishingly, the lakes periodically change hue – on our visit the largest was an iridescent turquoise, its neighbour chocolate brown and the third lake dark green. A few years ago the colours were blue, maroon and black, while back in the 1960s the lakes were blue, red-brown and café au lait. It’s thought that the lakes’ colours are in constant flux due to dissolving minerals, a process that can accelerate in the rainy season. The moonscape around the summit gives Kelimutu an ethereal atmosphere, especially when clouds billow across the craters and sun shafts add luminescent pinpoints to the lakes. Kelimutu’s relative isolation means that surprisingly few visitors make it here outside of the July–August high season, and even then it’s not too hard to find a peaceful spot to enjoy this natural wonder. Visit in the rainy season or in the afternoon and you may even have Kelimutu, in silence, to yourself. Pray for a sunny day – sunrise is stunning and the turquoise lake reaches its full brilliance in the sunlight. If the weather is not good, come back the next day – Kelimutu is really worth seeing at its best.
Kalimantan’s Rainforest
Kalimantan’s most celebrated inhabitant is the unbearably human-esque orang-utan. These rich amber–coloured primates with their soulful disposition are an undisputed highlight of the islands fauna and an obvious magnet for tourists. And, Kalimantan has some spectacular jungle journeys for travel junkies. The following require resilience, respect, Bahasa Indonesia and a keen sense of adventure; the reward is glimpses of ancient rainforests that may not be around for much longer.
Banyak Islands
The Banyak (Many) Islands are a cluster of 99, mostly uninhabited, islands, about 30km west of Singkil, Aceh. The islands are very remote and see few casual visitors. The 2004 Boxing Day earthquake and tsunami, followed by the 2005 Nias quake, destroyed many coastal dwellings and contaminated freshwater wells. The main island of Pulau Balai was permanently see-sawed by the quake, causing the west coast to rise by about 70cm and the east coast to drop below sea level. The main town of Balai now experiences flooding at high tide. Malaria has been reported on the islands, so take suitable precautions. Inquire at the pier about accommodation on Pulau Balai. Lodging may also be available on Pulau Palambak Kecil, Pulau Rangit Besar, Pulau Panjang and Pulau Ujung Batu with local families; ask about meals when arranging a room.
Sumba
The dry, undulating island of Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, centred on a religious tradition called marapu. It’s one of the poorest but most fascinating islands to visit, with a decidedly off-the-beaten-track appeal courtesy of its thatched clan houses, colossal carved megalith tombs, outstanding hand-spun ikat and bloody sacrificial funerals. Physically it looks quite different from the volcanic islands to the north, its countryside characterised by low limestone hills and fields of maize and cassava. Sumba’s extensive grasslands made it one of Indonesia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses are still used as transport in more rugged regions; they are a symbol of wealth and status and have traditionally been used as part of the bride-price.
Carstensz Pyramid is the highest mountain, not only of the New Guinea Island, but also of Australia and Oceania. It lies in the Snow Mountains of the Indonesian province Papua. The ascent to the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid is possible only using experienced climbing techniques.There are several routes leading to the summit. The simplest one is the “normal” route, which was taken in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, the first conqueror of the Carstensz Pyramid. You can even go skiing and unforgettable.
Wasur National Park
In Papua province of Indonesia. This park is the joint project of the Indonesian Directorate of Forest Protection & Nature Conservation and the indigenous people (mainly the Kanum and Marind) who contribute to, and benefit from, the park and its management. The 4138-sq-km park (Taman Nasional Wasur) backs onto the PNG border, and features termite mounds, wetlands, traditional villages and extensive bird life (74 endemic species). Wildlife includes cuscus and kangaroos (including 27 endemic species), but animals are often very difficult to see. The best time to visit is during the dry season (July to January); access during the wet season (February to June) is often only possible to Yanggandur and Onggaya villages.
The Mentawai Islands
West Sumatra, Mentawai Islands have consistent surf year-round at hundreds of famous and notso-famous breaks. But the best of the good waves can be found roughly between April and October (give or take a month). In the past, charter boats were the primary means of reaching the top surfing spots, but beachside camps (many of which are affiliated with charter companies) have set down roots on the islands. Surf resorts also offer cultural tour treks into the interior of Siberut.
The Kei Islands
The Kei Islands most famous tourist draw is Pasir Panjang, 3km of white sand so powdery it feels like flour. Coconut palms curve across it obligingly for your photographic delectation. Yet despite the brochure-cover beauty, the beach is almost entirely deserted except at weekends. Amid the palms around 400m north of Ngur Bloat (aka Pasir Panjang village) are a handful of Saturday-night karaoke shacks, two offering accommodation.
Crab at Taka Bonerate (Image courtesy of alex popescu)
Southeast of Pulau Selayar, and north of Pulau Bone Rate, is the 2220-sq-km Taka Bone Rate, the world’s third-largest coral atoll. The largest, Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands, is just 20% bigger. Some of the islands and extensive reefs in the region are now part of Taka Bonerate Marine National Park (Taman Laut Taka Bone Rate), a marine reserve with a rich variety of marine and bird life. There is no official accommodation on the islands, but if you manage to get here you can stay with villagers if you ask the kepala desa (village head) at Bone Rate on Pulau Bone Rate. Alternatively, take a tent and camp on a beach. Boats leave irregularly from Selayar. Most visitors are divers travelling on liveaboard trips.
Morotai Islands
Off Halmahera’s northern tip, this sparsely populated island became a minor Japanese base during WWII. It leapt to importance when it was captured by the Allies and used to bomb Manila to bits – the sad fulfilment of General MacArthur’s ‘I will return’ pledge to retake the Philippines. Among the Japanese defenders that retreated to Morotai’s crumpled mountain hinterland was the famous Private Nakamura: only in 1973 did he discover that the war was over. Bunkers and rusty bullet-cases are visible at overgrown WWII battle sites near Trans Dua. That’s 35 muddy minutes by ojek from Morotai’s village capital Daruba where a rusting US amphibious lander (amfibi) lies hidden in a coconut plantation. Daruba fishing smacks can take you to Pulau Sum Sum, a beautiful desert island that was MacArthur’s temporary WWII command base. It has delightful spongy, white sand and is littered with giant clam shells and the odd WWII bullet.
Kelimutu
Set in plunging craters at the summit of a volcano, the coloured lakes of Kelimutu are undoubtedly the most spectacular sight in Nusa Tenggara. Astonishingly, the lakes periodically change hue – on our visit the largest was an iridescent turquoise, its neighbour chocolate brown and the third lake dark green. A few years ago the colours were blue, maroon and black, while back in the 1960s the lakes were blue, red-brown and café au lait. It’s thought that the lakes’ colours are in constant flux due to dissolving minerals, a process that can accelerate in the rainy season. The moonscape around the summit gives Kelimutu an ethereal atmosphere, especially when clouds billow across the craters and sun shafts add luminescent pinpoints to the lakes. Kelimutu’s relative isolation means that surprisingly few visitors make it here outside of the July–August high season, and even then it’s not too hard to find a peaceful spot to enjoy this natural wonder. Visit in the rainy season or in the afternoon and you may even have Kelimutu, in silence, to yourself. Pray for a sunny day – sunrise is stunning and the turquoise lake reaches its full brilliance in the sunlight. If the weather is not good, come back the next day – Kelimutu is really worth seeing at its best.
Kalimantan’s Rainforest
Kalimantan’s most celebrated inhabitant is the unbearably human-esque orang-utan. These rich amber–coloured primates with their soulful disposition are an undisputed highlight of the islands fauna and an obvious magnet for tourists. And, Kalimantan has some spectacular jungle journeys for travel junkies. The following require resilience, respect, Bahasa Indonesia and a keen sense of adventure; the reward is glimpses of ancient rainforests that may not be around for much longer.
Banyak Islands
The Banyak (Many) Islands are a cluster of 99, mostly uninhabited, islands, about 30km west of Singkil, Aceh. The islands are very remote and see few casual visitors. The 2004 Boxing Day earthquake and tsunami, followed by the 2005 Nias quake, destroyed many coastal dwellings and contaminated freshwater wells. The main island of Pulau Balai was permanently see-sawed by the quake, causing the west coast to rise by about 70cm and the east coast to drop below sea level. The main town of Balai now experiences flooding at high tide. Malaria has been reported on the islands, so take suitable precautions. Inquire at the pier about accommodation on Pulau Balai. Lodging may also be available on Pulau Palambak Kecil, Pulau Rangit Besar, Pulau Panjang and Pulau Ujung Batu with local families; ask about meals when arranging a room.
Sumba
The dry, undulating island of Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, centred on a religious tradition called marapu. It’s one of the poorest but most fascinating islands to visit, with a decidedly off-the-beaten-track appeal courtesy of its thatched clan houses, colossal carved megalith tombs, outstanding hand-spun ikat and bloody sacrificial funerals. Physically it looks quite different from the volcanic islands to the north, its countryside characterised by low limestone hills and fields of maize and cassava. Sumba’s extensive grasslands made it one of Indonesia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses are still used as transport in more rugged regions; they are a symbol of wealth and status and have traditionally been used as part of the bride-price.
